Thursday, April 14, 2005

Cooking School: Fruit Desserts, Pies and Tarts


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A crisp is a fruit base topped with a crumb topping that includes oats, but not nuts.
A crumble is a fruit base topped with a crumb topping that includes nuts, but not oats.
A cobbler is a fruit base topped with spoonfuls of sweet biscuit or scone dough.
The names and ingredients of fruit desserts vary regionally and widely. The types of fruit you might use in any of these desserts will vary with where you are from and what is in season. Your favorites will depend on your personal taste preferences. You might call your dish a crisp, crumble, cobbler, grunt, slump, betty or a pandowdy.
We made a pear crumble - with walnuts, vanilla and lots of butter. Use firm pears, they'll soften as they cook. We also made a mixed berry cobbler with blueberries and blackberries, both of which shot wonderful spurts of hot, red juice into our mouths as we at it piping hot from the oven. I'm not going to be picky about what you call the dessert - as long as it tastes good. And since fruit desserts are definately some of my favorites, so I had been looking forward to class today.
The main emphasis of class today was to practice making pie and tart crusts. I also learned that it is difficult to explain precisely how to make it. A concert pianist will not say, when asked how to play piano, "just sit down and move your fingers!" You have to practice.
The tart crust is more forgiving because it is meant to be more crumbley and less flakey than a pie crust. It has a much higher sugar-to-flour ratio and only uses butter. Because we were not looking to develop gluten in the tart crust, the dough used an egg as a binder, not water. We made a blackberry studded almond tart, which you can see above. The crust was blind baked for 10 minutes with weights, baked again for 10 minutes without weights and filled with almond cream and blackberries before going into the oven for a final 30 minutes. The recipe is here.
Pie crust is a much more sensitive beast, though once you've mastered it you'll wonder why you thought it was so difficult in the first place.
Here are some tips to make a great pie crust:
And look at what a beautiful, flakey crust is produced when you follow those instructions! If you want the top to be darker, brush it with a bit of cream or butter before baking. I went for the natural look.

If you don't think apple pies are worth eating, you're wrong. Make this one and if you still don't like apple pies, we'll talk.

Apple Pie

For the crust:
2 1/2 cups ap flour (it is important to use all purpose)
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp sugar
3/4 cup butter, cut into 1 inch cubes and chilled
1/4 cup shortening (or lard), chilled
6-8 tbsp ice water

Combine dry ingredients in large bowl.
Cut in butter and shortening with your finger tips until mixture is coarse and no very large chunks remain.
Add water and press dough into a ball with the palms of your hands.
Wrap dough in plastic and refrigerate for at least one hour and up to two days.

For the filling
:
6 cups apples, peeled, cored and sliced
1/2 cup sugar, white or brown
1 1/2 tbsp flour
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp allspice
1/4 tsp salt
2 tbsp butter (reserve for assembly)

Mix apples, sugar, flour, spices and salt together in large mixing bowl. Set aside until dough is rolled out.

Cut refrigerated dough in half. Using your palms, press each half of the dough into a disk. On a large, flat surface, roll each disk into a large circle. Turn it frequently and use lots of flour as you roll. Keep rolling until the dough will fill the pie dish. Gently lay the bottom crust into the dish. Fill pie dish with filling.
Dot filling with reserved butter.
Lay top crust on top of filling and pinch edges to seal. Throw away excess dough and do not try to crimp the edges - this will only toughen them. Cut steam vents in top crust.

Bake pie at 425F for 10 minutes. Turn oven down to 375F and bake for 1 hour, or until juices are oozing from the pie.
Let pie cool for at least 1 1/2 hours before slicing to allow juices to thicken.
Nic, 5:01 PM


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10 Comments:

Those tarts look absolutely beautiful. Almost too pretty to eat. Where are you taking classes?
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Blogger Snake in Fall, at 7:58 PM  
Fortunately for me, I was able to overcome their looks and eat them anyway. Delish!
I'm at a cooking school - in the pro baking class series - down here in LA.
Blogger Nic, at 10:03 PM  
Nic., that blackberry frangipane tart looks absolutely drool-worthy.
Yum!
Blogger Molly, at 8:17 AM  
Hi Nic, I stumbled upon your blog recently and I love it! Those tarts look absolutely yummy. Hope you can share with us the recipe. Looking forward to reading more of your culinary adventure.
Anonymous elna, at 9:29 AM  
Molly and Elna - Drool worthy is a good descriptor. I think I'll try and post the recipe in the next day or so. Stay tuned!
Blogger Nic, at 10:17 AM  
Thanks for straightening out the crisp, crumble, cobbler thing for me. It all makes sense now!
Blogger Suebob, at 5:12 PM  
You're welcome, Suebob. Actually, it helped me just to write it down. =)
Blogger Nic, at 1:29 PM  
I was just looking to make an apple pie and was thinking how to make that lovely crust. Your recipe is super! Thanks!
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